Wednesday, August 27, 2014

Maria sends epic swell. Otherwise, 75, and fair.

We are starting to see some of the Hurricane Marie swell arrive along the central coast this morning.  This part of the swell was generated when the storm was way east of us, along the Mexican coastline, so most of it is basically headed out to see.  But due to the twist, and turns of the coastline and sea bottom surface, along with wave dynamics, so of the points around here are puling in the large mid period swell.  But it is SoCal that is getting the show right now, with the Wedge breaking in the twenty foot plus range on the big sets.  What a great few days of waves we have had, with a few more lined up.  Not a bad finish to August, which is typically one of our smallest and least consistent months of the year.  And today we even were permitted to watch the sun rise over the local hills.  I'll credit that in part to Marie, but mostly it has to do with the local gradient turning more northwesterly, and blowing out that fog earlier than a south flow.

Frog in pond.  Wells, Maine.

For us here in Santa Cruz, the next few days have varying amounts of fog.  But a day like today, where the marine layer was pulled out to the water by 6:30AM, are not likely.  The tropical effect, where a system pulls in all the bad weather in the region, really only works when the storm is strong, pumping, and (it sure helps) growing.  Maria is no longer a hurricane, with top sustained winds at 65 knots, and hence, not really the best vacuum to give us a few hot summer days.  There was a chance that the remnants of Marie would slide north through the continent, but it now looks like guidance sends the tropical wave westerly, into the open ocean, once it hits about 30^N.  Anyway, more of the same for us.  Warmer than the previous few days.  Mid day highs top out in the mid to upper 70s.  Low temps hit just about 60F.  Improving tomato weather for sure.

Water is warm, the days are long, and the sun is out.  Oh, and the swell is up.  It is Santa Cruz time.  It will be a great end of the week here, and plenty of fun sized surf lasting through the weekend.  Keep an eye on that ocean the next few days.  Big sneaker south souths are on their way.  If you plan to get in the water, expect some strong currents developing through the next few days, along with some plus sized sets.  Some of the better focal points could be pushing double overhead.  Stay off of coastal rocks and sea groins, and watch the show from a safe distance.

And the north Pacific is starting to stir as well.  Fingers crossed for an early fall.

No comments:

Post a Comment