No real change from yesterday's forecast. Surf will pick up today and this evening into the XXL range. Some of the OR buoys and the CA offshore buoy are reading 23 feet at 17 seconds currently. That is quite some swell. We are expecting over 15 feet of deep water swell to arrive by night fall. With the long periods, that is going to create some very large surf. It will remain quite large through mid day Monday. Be careful in places where either the cliff is eroding into the sea, or the waves typically come up and over during the winter. I doubt too many will venture out into the water, as we are also experiencing strong south west flow. Which will increase overnight, as the final wave of this wet period moves through. So far last night and today we have tallied over a half inch of rain here in town. More to come tonight.
Fair and warm Tuesday through the end of the work week. Some cooling for the weekend. More later. Time to go stomp around a bit during this break.
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